This bag is constructed of heavy leather and built for rugged use. It is designed to be carried on board and fits easily under the seat of modern jet airliners. It has two outside expandable pockets that will hold a multitude of smaller items. The inside can be lined and fitted with any number or size of pockets you may desire. The zipper pull can be locked. Personally, I have never seen the importance of locks on zippered cases as anyone determined to get into them could slash the zipper tape around the sewn edges with a knife.
1. Cut out the bag. Make deep fold gouges in the bottom. Moisten and fold. Tap with a hammer to make crisp folds. Put center marks on edges. Make two end pieces. Gouge heavily on the fold lines. Moisten and fold. Cut out the gusset and make the fold gouges. Sew in a heavy zipper.
2. Rubber cement the end pieces in the bad. Put marks on the edges of the bag right at the top of the end pieces. Remove the end pieces. Put some identification marks inside the bad and end pieces so each end piece can be returned to its former position.
3. With rubber cement, adhere the gusset to the bag. Begin by aligning the center marks. Use care to keep all edges even. Put marks on the gusset. Also be sure and mark the gussets to match the end pieces so they do not get sewn to the wrong ends.
4. Remove the gusset from the bag and lay it out with the turned edges flat. Cut in at the marks and cut out a ½” section. Turn gusset lining side up. Peel lining loose and skive the edges thin. Re-cement the lining. Repeat on the opposite end.
5. Install the lower part of the catch, centered on one of the end pieces. This goes on the end with the zipper pull when the zipper is closed. Burnish top edge; gouge sewing channel. Cement lining to the ends.
6. Turn the edges of the gusset back up. Cement the ends to the gusset. Force end piece up so that the turned edges are tightly abutted. Be sure you have the proper gusset end matched with the proper end piece. Now sew the ends to the gusset. The gusset assembly is now complete.
7. Now, cut a piece of leather the width of the lock top and narrow it in the middle to fit the hole in the zipper pull. Force one end in the hole. Put the lock in place. Measure the distance needed to fit in lock and cut off.
8. Glue the leathers together and burnish edges. Install the lock.
9. Make a pair of handles with 7/8″ dees, about 13″ fold to fold. Put the shield tabs through the dees and rivet to the bad. Fold shield down, cement to bag and sew.
10. Make the buckle assembly. Make the leather loop from 6/7 oz cowhide. Put the loop on tab. Put buckle tongue in slot; rivet tab to case. Glue the shield down and sew the buckle assembly to the case.
11. Sew the billet straps on the pocket flaps. Be sure to center it on the flap. Scribe lines on the bag for the edge of the pocket flaps. Cement the edges of the flaps in place and sew.
12. Cut out the pockets and make all gouges as indicated on the pattern. Moisten all folds and shape. Tap each fold line down for sharp folds.
13. Lay the pocket out flat. Burnish the edges, gouge sewing channels. Install the buckle assembly. Cut leather slide loop from 4/5 oz. cowhide.
14. Now fold the sides in against the bottom. Glue tabs to bottom edge. Sew through the bottom edge and the tabs inside to unite the gusset sides and bottom. Fold pocket together, tap all folds flat.
15. Fold the pocket together and cement it in place on the bag. Note how the notches in the pocket fit against the edge of the flap. The bottom and corner should fit. Sew both pockets in place. Sew the bag billet strap to the back of the case.
16. Now, cement the gusset back in the bag. Align all edges as evenly as possible. Tap with a hammer to insure adhesion. Gouge sewing channels in the gusset and the bag, about 1/8″ inch from the edges. Sew bag together. Burnish all edges.