Cut crease eyeshadow looks have been gaining popularity, as they add a unique edge to your look while emphasizing your natural eye shape. This makeup look has recently been gaining lots of attention and has been adorning various celebrities from Adele to J Lo. Here is a simple guide on how to create a cut crease.
Plan out your look.
The first step to creating your cut crease eye look is to decide exactly what you want to achieve. There are hundreds of creative variations, but let’s start with the basics. Do you want a dramatic look, or are you looking for something more wearable and suitable for day time? Are you going for a colorful look, or keeping it to neutral tones? Do you want your look to be completely matte, or would you like a pop of shimmer or glitter on the lid? You can easily find inspiration for what look you want to achieve by surfing the internet; the possibilities are endless!
Next, choose the appropriate shadows for your cut crease. The crease should consist of only matte shadows, and the shades will depend on how dramatic you want your look to turn out. You should have your darkest shade ready (typically black, or deep brown), as well as slightly lighter matte shades to blend out the shadow. Your lid color can be just about any color under the rainbow, and in any finish you’d like, but you want to try to pick something that is lighter than your crease shade, or a color that will create contrast. If you like glitter, you can also choose a glitter to apply on top of your lid shadow. It is also important to have lots of eyeshadow brushes handy, including a small tapered brush (or pencil brush), small eyeshadow shader brushes, and a blending brush.
Build from the bottom up.
It may be tempting to get right in there with your darkest crease color, but it’s beneficial to work your way up by applying your blending shades first. This makes it easier to blend the shadows together in the long run. Apply your lightest crease color first, making sure not to get any of the shadow beneath the eye crease or on the lid. Blend the shadow up toward the brow bone. Then build on top of it, by layering darker shadows and continuing to blend upwards. This look will be created by selectively blending, which basically means you will be blending everything above the crease, but leaving the bottom unblended, in order to create that clean line at the crease.
Cut your crease.
Once your blending shadows have been applied, it is time to cut your crease. Use your darkest matte shadow for this and apply it to a pencil brush. You may want to spray the brush with a little water or makeup setting spray to intensify the shadow, but this is optional. Very carefully, use the brush to draw a clean line on the crease of the eye. If you have hooded eyes, you may want to make the line slightly above the crease. If you want to give the eyes a bit of a lift, you can also slightly curve the end of the line up towards the end of your brow. Carefully continue to add shadow to the line until it is mostly opaque, and then blend out the top of that line using soft, upwards and sideways motions. Again, remember to leave the bottom of the line crisp and clean, but take your time to really blend out the top, to create a gradient with the blending shades you have already applied. If necessary, you can go back in with the blending shades to touch up and assist with blending.
Applying your lid shade.
Now that your crease is neatly cut, it is time to apply your lid shade. With a small shader brush, carefully pat your lid color onto the exposed eyelid, being careful not to blend the color whatsoever with the shadows at the crease or above it. You may want to keep adding color until the shadow is as pigmented as you want it to be. It might also be necessary to carefully go back in with your pencil brush and your crease color to clean up that line, if your lid shadow disturbs it.
Finishing off the look.
Now that your cut crease eyeshadow is complete, you’ll want to finish off your look. If you want to apply glitter, you can apply glitter adhesive to the lid and carefully pat the glitter on top. You can apply shadows to the bottom lash line, line the top and/or bottom lashes with eye liner, or just finish the look off with some mascara or false eye lashes. This look is very versatile so remember to have fun with it, and most importantly, practice makes perfect!